September 2006

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Musharraf recently released a ghost written autobiography. If the leaked portions of the autobiography are anything to go by, the autobiography promises to be a complete sham. For a real biography of Musharraf, join me on a small tour of this autocrat’s life.

General Pervez Musharraf, the (in) famous son of Delhi, and the de-facto “mai-baap” (mother-father) of every Pakistani since October 12, 1999, the day he led a successful coup d’etat.

General sahib was born to a respectable middle-class family in Daryanganj, Delhi in 1943. His family moved to Karachi after partition and his father went on to work for the foreign ministry in Turkey. Pervez went on to join the military, one of the few certain ways available in Pakistan to move up the social hierarchy, and rapidly climbed up the ladder thanks to foreign education and ample political ambition.

Musharraf was appointed the “Chief of Army” in 1999 by the then Prime Minister of Pakistan, Mr. Nawaz Sharif, primarily because Musharraf was considered a weak candidate given his status as a Muhajir. Muhajir (Arabic for refugee) is a mildly derogatory term (in Pakistan, in Islam it has a positive meaning) that refers to Muslims in Pakistan that came from India during partition. A brief glance at Pakistan’s politics will tell you two fundamental facts about Pakistan’s politics – that it is dominated by people from Punjab, and that it has no or little place for muhajirs (both facts are complimentary as most muhajirs stay in Karachi) except for of course the most famous one, “Baba-e-Qaum” (Father of the Nation) Mr. Muhammad Ali Jinnah.

Within a few months of his appointment, Musharraf launched a large well disguised offensive against India in Kargil, Kashmir. India, distracted with making peace overtures and conducting ‘bus diplomacy’, woke up late to the conflict but when it did it soon enough successfully (though expensively) dispelled the Pakistani attack. In all, the Kargil conflict was an abject failure for Pakistan. Nawaz Sharif cried hoarse that army had launched the attack without his knowledge and reprimanded Musharraf publicly but never divested him of his duties as the Chief of Army. Within two months of the failed operation in Kargil, Musharraf launched a successful coup against Sharif and installed himself as the leader of Pakistan.

Between October 1999 and September 2001, Musharraf oversaw a catastrophic economy and Pakistan’s slow but steady slide towards being a failed state. At the same time, Mr. Musharraf talked about how he planned a return to democracy, and how his short reign was merely intended to stabilize the country. Never mind that within a fortnight we will celebrate (?) the seventh anniversary of his rule. On to September 11th and how US undersecretary threatened to bomb Pakistan back to ‘Stone Age’ and how Musharraf bowed down to join the coalition. (Do I gather that there was an unwilling member in the coalition of the willing? ) Since I suppose Musharraf’s primary reason why he joined the fight against terrorism was fear and not genuine interest in fighting terrorism, it explains why Musharraf has never ever applied himself to the task of fighting terrorists beyond launching occasional forays in the North West for the benefit of the media. Mr. Musharraf continues to oversee a terrorist infrastructure in Pakistan that arms the Taliban in Afghanistan and the militants in Kashmir while mumbling statements with Bush and co. talking about his deep desire to fight terrorism. It begs belief when one sees Bush embracing Musharraf but then again Bush is conducting his puppet show for the unsuspecting Americans.

Let’s interrogate Musharraf’s efforts to return democracy to Pakistan. Musharraf currently holds the position of both the Chief of Army and the president of the country under a modified constitution that gives a president enormous executive power. Musharraf also oversees a puppet democracy run by Islamic parties that came to power after he disqualified most candidates from secular parties and mandated a new rule that only college graduates can run for elections. One would immediately think that limiting candidacy to people with college degrees can be seen as a progressive step that helps government be run by technocrats. But this is exactly where people like Musharraf are at their diabolical best. Two reasons – one is that most “college graduates” in Pakistan who did run in the election were graduated from unaccredited Islamic colleges, and secondly denying the right to stand in election to 9/10th or more of the population is undemocratic, if not anti-democratic. Musharraf, while mouthing niceties about democracy, has created a Pakistan where there is no second echelon of secularists. Musharraf positions himself as the sole messiah of the enlightened Pakistan meanwhile undercutting roots that can sustain a secular civil society in Pakistan.

Besides undercutting democracy and abetting terrorism, his perversity has found an outlet in two other things – supporting legislation that gives even more economic and other power to military as an institution, and waging a brutal war against people in the NWFP.

In all, it is nauseating to see Musharraf being felicitated for his contributions in the “War on Terror” while an uncomfortable morose Hamid Karzai looks on.

The worst part about these photo-ops showcasing a beaming Bush, Musharraf and Karzai is that the joke is on us.

My first impression about Bay Area is that it looks like a mosaic of post-industrial wasteland interspersing unending sprawl peppered with preppy downtown districts, all sun baked and connected by enormous amounts of tar. The endless lanes of black tar that connect virtually everything to everything are constantly polished by a multitude of cars that zip by at all times of the day.

Bay Area of course is more than what I mention above. It is also a Mecca of technology – the home of Silicon Valley. There are parts in San Jose and Milpitas where technology companies line both sides of the street. Often times driving in Bay Area seems surreal as one zips by signs of top technology companies like Google, Apple, Cisco, Oracle, Microsoft, A9, Symantec, Sybase, VM Ware and countless others. The mind is faintly awed and confused at seeing names of the companies whose products I use so often.

Where there are computers, there are Indians. Or so it is these days. Sunnyvale, Fremont and San Jose feature mini Indian towns with countless grocery shops and even a dedicated theater (Naz, run by a Pakistani) for showcasing the best of Bollywood and Tollywood. The Indians here fall into three distinct sections – students, computer professionals, and then the underclass of taxi drivers and gas station attendants. Each of these distinct sections of Indian populations feature an ethnic majority – taxi drivers tend to be Sikhs or from Punjab, and computer professionals tend to be from the South (primarily Tamil Nadu and Andhra Pradesh).

The technology industry in Bay Area has a lot to do with both the quality of universities here and the enormous of money that the government spends here to maintain variety of nuclear/arms labs – from Livermore to NASA Ames Research Center. Of course the quality of the university is actively sustained by the money they get in government funding to maintain these labs and in doing research in concert with Department of Defense.

On to the universities – While Berkeley looks a bit dog-eared and is in a slightly impoverished setting reflecting its status as a top-notch gargantuan public university, Stanford itself looks like a tropical resort isolated from a preppy downtown that shows surprisingly little influence of the more than 12,000 students that go to school here. Both universities have a lot in common and among them – abundance of top-notch talent, and an abundance of Asians in the ranks. (Berkeley’s undergraduate population is over 40% Asian since California outlawed Affirmative action). They also have a lot of their departments that feature in the top five in surveys by US News.

No discussion about Bay Area is complete without referencing its astronomical cost of living. Coming from Boston, an expensive market, the rental prices in Palo Alto still gave me sticker shock.

Bay Area is a puzzle. At once intimidating due to its traffic choked highways and the sheer expanse, and welcoming for people tend to smile more than they do on the East Coast. California epitomizes what US is about –a place where everything has been optimized for economic efficiency and where people themselves have become synonymous with the system they work in. People smile the empty smiles of customer service representatives. And a day turns over and people have to go to work again.